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【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

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发表于 2008-5-7 06:32 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
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<p>作者:TONY</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><br/>Thin( 2mm or less ) vegetable tanned leather (calf or goat ), from Rio Rondo ( nice leather , but very small pieces : you want the pale flesh-coloured stuff , not the coloured , which are chrome tan ;<br/>or other suppliers : I use Le Prevo , of Blackfriars , Stowell St., Newcastle NE1 4XN , who do an excellent mailorder service if you are in the UK . <a href="http://www.leprevo.co.uk/" target="_blank"><font color="#4d2000">http://www.leprevo.co.uk/</font></a><br/><br/>Their vegtan goatskins , described sometimes as Morocco, are ideal for 1/6th , and not expensive. One will last you for years .<br/><br/><b>Linen thread</b> , a little beeswax to rub on the thread to make it pull through holes smoothly, and suitable needles ( glovers needles which have a sharpened blade tip are often handy , from le Prevo ), and very sharp new knives : Scalpels are adequate in this scale .<br/>You will also need an <b>awl</b> to make holes with : I made mine by backing a largish needle into a suitable wooden handle , then grinding the tip to a sharp point .<br/>A cork tile is a really useful board to work on , since you can pin things to it , as you see in the following pics.<br/>Otherwise it’s best to use a very smooth piece of MDF or similar to work on when cutting leather .<br/><br/><b>The point about using vegtan leather is that it’s plastic whilst wet </b>: you can stretch it and shape it amazingly to make shoes and holsters . It also takes false stitching and decoration very well : it’s the leather used for all tooled work in 1:1 , such as Western gunbelts and saddles . Chrome leathers cannot be shaped in this way : you can stitch them into flat items or cut straps from them satisfactorily , but beyond that they are useless. <br/><br/><br/>To make shoes 1/6 succesfully you are following a simplified version of 1:1 shoemaking , but leaving out a layer ( the insole ) which makes things easier .<br/><br/>The first requirement is for a <b>last </b>( or a pair of lasts to speed things up ) to mould your shoe around : I make mine from Sculpey , but an epoxy putty would do just as well if you don’t have a suitable oven for the Sculpey.<br/>You need to compare for size it to the foot of the figure you are dressing , and also to the shape of the particular style of shoe you are trying to make .<br/>In this article I’m making mid-seventeenth century shoes for English Civil War figure , but the principles are much the same for later styles , ACW brogans for example .<br/><br/>The last needs to be big enough , and I’ve found it’s wise to err on the larger side , since the leather will shrink very slightly on drying.<br/>Before the mid-19th century , shoes were “straights “ , that is , the same for both feet , and made on the same last : no wonder people had to break them in ! <br/>You'll find that your figure has laft and right feet , so you have to make some accomodation for that when modelling the lasts ,<br/><br/></p>




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 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-7 06:37 | 显示全部楼层
<p>Take a needle , with a waxed thread , and sew the upper and sole together . This can be a bit fiddly , but so long as you keep the holes matching , it should work out in the end . I use two needles , <br/><b>saddle stitching </b>as it’s called , but you can go round and back with one needle if you prefer:</p><p><br/>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
<br/></p><p>Wet the welt and burnish it all to shape again.<br/>Then the backs ( in the originals , the backs are actually in two pieces , but it’s quite possible to make them in one in 1/6th ).<br/>Notice that the back is quite curved : this is essential to make it deep enough for the heel , yet tight enough at the top to lie close to the ankle.<br/>Repeat the procedure as with the front : the back slightly overlaps the front on each side:<br/><br/></p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
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【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
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【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-7 06:41 | 显示全部楼层
<p>You might want to add another layer to the sole : simply stick on ; the same for heels , which are stacked from as many pieces as you want :Here I've placed the sewn shoes on another layer to make the outer soles : once glued ( use any good glue : it could be white glue , or Bostik ) I'll trim round this and add the heels :<br/>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p>[ HISTORICAL NOTE : despite what you might think from countless <br/>“ medieval “ films , heels were not in use in Europe until 1600 : they come in almost exactly with the new century , probably after influence from Eastern Europe and ultimately the Turks , who seem to have been the first people to use them .<br/>Late medieval/ renaissance shoes did have attached , welted soles ( after about 1460 ) , and there was often a thickening lift towards the rear , but they never had separate heels until after 1600 ......<br/>Any European figure before 1600 WILL NOT HAVE HEELS ! ]<br/><br/>Dampen and burnish again , and your shoe is finished apart from the lace holes and colouring.<br/>Once you are happy with the shape , gently ease it off the last , and finish with a colour wash of acrylic , and some suitable laces:<br/><br/>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p>Here are some more types I've made this way : Shoes from 1600 , with a raised but integral heel :<br/><br/></p><p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
<br/></p><p>Some round-toed shoes from around 1630 :<br/></p><p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p>And some ACW Brogans ( forgive the trouser legs ) :<br/><br/></p><p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><strong>GLUING instead of STITCHING :<br/><br/></strong>It’s quite possible to use this method using a last , but substituting glue for the stitching : but the leather will have to be really dry at each stage, or the glue won’t take on it . I haven’t tried it myself , preferring the “ scale “ stitching ; and the finished item is going to be a little less strong if you use glue ; but I’m sure it’s possible if you don’t fancy the sewing .The stitching can be faked with the awl once the glue is dry : dampen the leather again and scribe the stitching into the leather .<br/>__________________________________________________ ___________<br/><br/><br/>Once you have some vegtan leather ; all sorts of improvement to commercial items becomes possible . You are only limited by time and skill . It’s well worth replacing Pleather straps with the real thing , since it eliminates the woven backing which often shows with pleather items. You can make leather holsters as well .<br/>Vegtan likes acrylic paint , which it soaks up , so it’s possible to turn it any colour you like ( experiment on a scrap first ); There are also a good range of spirit based leather dyes you can get from suppliers .You can use wax to get a shine after , or even use boot polish .<br/></p>
[此贴子已经被作者于2008-5-7 6:41:52编辑过]

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WORLD BOX
 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-7 06:44 | 显示全部楼层
<p><strong>BOOTS :<br/></strong>The same technique can be used to make tall boots , for which you will need a full-height last , modelled in this pic in Sculpey again: </p><p><br/>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><br/>The pupose of the last is again to enable you to accurately shape each section before assembling it.<br/>Start with moulding the wet leather to make the foot , then the leg . You have to glue or stich the leg to the foot portion . It’s ESSENTIAL not to close the rear seam until you remove the last , or you will never get it out :</p><p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><br/>Once all the sections are joined , remove the last :<br/></p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-7 06:46 | 显示全部楼层
<p>Using some other cylindrical object like a length of dowel without a foot on it as an internal support , you can now either stitch or glue the rear seam ; here I’m butt-stitching the two edges together with a pair of glover’s needles threaded on the same thread : saddle stitching , in other words, but with the edges being brought together rather than overlapped. This is exactly how the real boots were made:<br/>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><br/>The finished boots , after staining with a spirit-based leather dye </p><p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><br/>I also used an identical technique to add some legs to the DiD officer’s boots , to make the Staff Officers’ boot shown here . The gaiter leg was moulded on the last , then glued to the boot , then both boot and gaiter were painted with acrylics :<br/></p>

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-7 06:48 | 显示全部楼层
<p>希望这些内容对喜欢自己动手改造DIY的玩家们有一定的帮助。</p><p></p>
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发表于 2008-5-9 20:34 | 显示全部楼层
软化剂到是不难搞到吧,大概50元左右
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发表于 2008-5-9 16:57 | 显示全部楼层
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>MP战队的QQ</i>在2008-5-9 16:25:00的发言:</b><br/><p>老外肯定用了能软化皮革的溶剂泡皮子,要不不可能这样简单就固定定型的!!没有那种溶剂就是弄到了够薄的皮革也不可能和他一样固定定型的!!!我把皮子用水泡了一个礼拜结果在固定定型时就两种结果:</p><p>1.用钉子(大头针)固定时因为要弄的造型复杂,皮子撕裂。</p><p>2.能初步定型,但是松开固定后皮子恢复原状(就是不完全恢复也和期望相差很远)。</p><p>所以~~~~~搞到软化剂才是王道啊!!!!!!</p></div><p>QQ兄说得没错,然后软化剂完了还要上硬化剂。</p>
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发表于 2008-5-9 16:25 | 显示全部楼层
<p>老外肯定用了能软化皮革的溶剂泡皮子,要不不可能这样简单就固定定型的!!没有那种溶剂就是弄到了够薄的皮革也不可能和他一样固定定型的!!!我把皮子用水泡了一个礼拜结果在固定定型时就两种结果:</p><p>1.用钉子(大头针)固定时因为要弄的造型复杂,皮子撕裂。</p><p>2.能初步定型,但是松开固定后皮子恢复原状(就是不完全恢复也和期望相差很远)。</p><p>所以~~~~~搞到软化剂才是王道啊!!!!!!</p>
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-9 17:01 | 显示全部楼层
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>dawning</i>在2008-5-9 16:57:00的发言:</b><br/><p>QQ兄说得没错,然后软化剂完了还要上硬化剂。</p></div><p>看来难度甚大</p>
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发表于 2008-5-9 11:45 | 显示全部楼层
&nbsp;学习贴
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-5-9 00:23 | 显示全部楼层
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>waffen26</i>在2008-5-8 22:04:00的发言:</b><br/><p>哈!我的e 文也不行!!反正看到好作品就copy他人的用語修改一下來回應,就不會變潛水員囉!呵呵</p></div><p>都是同道中人啊 </p>
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发表于 2008-5-9 00:07 | 显示全部楼层
看来……挣扎中要不要去注册……
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发表于 2008-5-8 20:22 | 显示全部楼层
有参考价值!
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发表于 2008-5-8 20:38 | 显示全部楼层
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>ZIP</i>在2008-5-8 11:08:00的发言:</b><br/><p>还好我注册了好几年了 </p><p>但是我是个潜水份子</p></div><p>帮我们引荐一下吧,顺便变成活跃份子.</p>
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