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<p>作者:TONY</p><p> </p><p>
【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴
</p><p><br/>Thin( 2mm or less ) vegetable tanned leather (calf or goat ), from Rio Rondo ( nice leather , but very small pieces : you want the pale flesh-coloured stuff , not the coloured , which are chrome tan ;<br/>or other suppliers : I use Le Prevo , of Blackfriars , Stowell St., Newcastle NE1 4XN , who do an excellent mailorder service if you are in the UK . <a href="http://www.leprevo.co.uk/" target="_blank"><font color="#4d2000">http://www.leprevo.co.uk/</font></a><br/><br/>Their vegtan goatskins , described sometimes as Morocco, are ideal for 1/6th , and not expensive. One will last you for years .<br/><br/><b>Linen thread</b> , a little beeswax to rub on the thread to make it pull through holes smoothly, and suitable needles ( glovers needles which have a sharpened blade tip are often handy , from le Prevo ), and very sharp new knives : Scalpels are adequate in this scale .<br/>You will also need an <b>awl</b> to make holes with : I made mine by backing a largish needle into a suitable wooden handle , then grinding the tip to a sharp point .<br/>A cork tile is a really useful board to work on , since you can pin things to it , as you see in the following pics.<br/>Otherwise it’s best to use a very smooth piece of MDF or similar to work on when cutting leather .<br/><br/><b>The point about using vegtan leather is that it’s plastic whilst wet </b>: you can stretch it and shape it amazingly to make shoes and holsters . It also takes false stitching and decoration very well : it’s the leather used for all tooled work in 1:1 , such as Western gunbelts and saddles . Chrome leathers cannot be shaped in this way : you can stitch them into flat items or cut straps from them satisfactorily , but beyond that they are useless. <br/><br/><br/>To make shoes 1/6 succesfully you are following a simplified version of 1:1 shoemaking , but leaving out a layer ( the insole ) which makes things easier .<br/><br/>The first requirement is for a <b>last </b>( or a pair of lasts to speed things up ) to mould your shoe around : I make mine from Sculpey , but an epoxy putty would do just as well if you don’t have a suitable oven for the Sculpey.<br/>You need to compare for size it to the foot of the figure you are dressing , and also to the shape of the particular style of shoe you are trying to make .<br/>In this article I’m making mid-seventeenth century shoes for English Civil War figure , but the principles are much the same for later styles , ACW brogans for example .<br/><br/>The last needs to be big enough , and I’ve found it’s wise to err on the larger side , since the leather will shrink very slightly on drying.<br/>Before the mid-19th century , shoes were “straights “ , that is , the same for both feet , and made on the same last : no wonder people had to break them in ! <br/>You'll find that your figure has laft and right feet , so you have to make some accomodation for that when modelling the lasts ,<br/><br/></p> |
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